in-cosmetics awards shortlist revealed

In all, a record 180 entries were received in the four categories, with nearly 50 being shortlisted in all four. They include the following.

Active Ingredient award:

• Normactive, for Chromazone, a natural active based on upcycled pomegranate pericarp extract in a liposome-based formulation designed to protect hair against colour bleeding and external aggressors
• Berkem for Skin’calm, an acacia flower extract rich in sugars and polyphenols that soothes the skin, rebalancing its pH, and corrects imperfections
• Evonik for Sphinx Defenda, a bioactive sphingolipid derived from naturally occurring phytosphingosine, which offers various skin defence and protection benefits.
• Colonial Chemical for SugaDet LSDG, a liquid blend mild, high-foam sulfosuccinate and alkylpolyglucoside, the latter being supplied as a semi-solid paste to eliminate dispensing issues
• IFF – Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, for Wastar Pink Berry, an upcycled botanical extract from Madagascar that is rich in bioflavonoids to soothe irritated scalps

Functional Ingredient award:

• Tagra Biotechnologies, for DeeperCaps pigments, which have a double-layer microcapsule structure to ensure that the pigments are released and adhere to skin with a natural perfect colour-match and full coverage but no white residue
• PolymerExpert, for EstoGel Green, a 100% natural oil-gelling agent which acts as a rheology modifier to help create non-brittle, transparent and sprayable gels with a pleasant sensory touch
• Symrise, for Hydrolite 7 green multifunctional ingredients for multiple applications, based on seven-carbon from sustainably sourced castor bean oil
• Nagase Personal Care, for Micromica MK-100K-C, a functional base powder developed from upcycling potassium fluorosilicate from fertiliser production; and also for Rublaleaf KCX-5000, a sensory enhancer designed to provide qualities and effects similar to microplastic beads
• Ashland, for Natrathix bio cellulose, a biodegradable rheology modifier with suspension capabilities that maintains the emulsion stability of skin and sun care formulations, with a desirable skin feel
• Lubrizol Life Science, for PemPur Statrt, a natural-derived polymeric emulsifier providing excellent stabilisation capabilities at low use levels while offering a fresh and quick-break sensory.
• Cellicon Lab, for PermeaCell, a peptide-based platform for the delivery of cargos to the dermis for topical therapeutics

Green Ingredient award, for which products must have been launched in the last two years:

• Nafigate, for Hydal PHA, an upcycled biopolymer that based on green chemistry and zero-waste manufacturing, and used as a biocompatible, non-toxic and fully biodegradable ingredient in a polymeric matrix.
• Provital, for Ethicskin, a multifunctional active developed and produced around an eco-ethical initiative in Mexico that is said to provide an inclusive pathway to skin homeostasis and preventive ageing.
• Mibelle Biochemistry, for MelanoGray, an anti-hair greying essence sustainably obtained by upcycling peel paste from organic Chios mandarins
• Lipoid Kosmetik, for PhytoCollagen, an all-natural, COSMOS-certified, plant-based alternative to animal collagen with similar cosmetic benefits
• Biolie, for Pyr’O, an organic pear extract to replace water in cosmetic formulations

Rising Star award for a first- or second-year exhibitor:

• EverCare, supplier of the tailored Zano and Xperse zinc oxide product lines for suncare
• Jinyoungbi, which supplies ceramide, dextrin-based, amino acid-based oil gelling agents
• Microphyt, a specialist in microalgae-based natural active ingredients
• Oriel Marine Magnesium Extracts, which uses patented technology to harvest a rare form of magnesium, minerals and trace elements directly from deep seawater
• Scentmate by Firmenich, which claims to be “the first AI-powered platform that can turn a creative idea into a winning fragrance in just a few clicks”
• Sumitomo Pharma Food & Chemical, which makes polysaccharides suitable for cosmetic and personal care products.
• Uute Scientific, which develops inactivated microbe extracts from forest soil- and plant-based materials for use in cosmetics