At Cosmet’Agora 2022, BASF introduced Castaline, a 100% natural extract of organic certified leaves from chestnut trees (Castanea sativa), which are manually harvested in France.
Castaline issaid to clinically proven to help improve the appearance of skin prone to atopy, a condition caused by immunological abnormalities that break down barrier functions, causing itchiness and redness.
Since the leaves are carefully collected from young trees that do not bear fruit, their use in a cosmetic active can be considered as valorisation of an agricultural by-product, the company said. Chestnut leaves are already known from literature for their health properties in medicinal and Ayurveda uses.
BASF carried out a double-blind, randomised in vivo study, 22 adults with dry skin and a mild-to-moderate Eczema Area & Severity Index (EASI) scores applied a base cream emulsion inspired by an established market reference product for very dry skin on one arm or hand, and the same emulsion containing 2% Castaline on the other. After 56 days, the latter delivered a 27% decrease in transepidermal water loss compared to 18% when using the former. The average EASI score also decreased by 43% using Castaline.
“These results show that Castaline helps support the skin’s barrier function – with visible and tangible effects,” BASF said. “In a self-assessment conducted at the end of the 56-day study, 82% participants stated that their skin looked more hydrated, and 73% said Castaline increased softness and achieved a soothing effect.”
Further in vitro testing using a 3D model of inflamed epidermis in the presence of S. aureus, the prevalent bacteria in skin prone to atopic conditions, and in the presence of a specific inflammatory cocktail of cytokines identified in the acute phase of this skin condition confirmed that Castaline helps support the skin’s natural immune, microbial and physical barriers.
The company stand also showcased the ‘Alive Beauty’ concept from BASF’s Care Creations, a range of natural-based cosmetic products that are claimed to “combine outstanding performance with a positive emotional impact”. This includes formulations for light, modern textures for the skin skin, plus solid-texture and natural-based ingredients.
