New testing strategy for cosmetic allergens

In Europe, Regulation (EC) N°1223/2009, enforces the obligation to inform consumers of the presence of 24 chemically-defined fragrance substances identified as potential allergens in cosmetic products. Following the publication of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety’s document (SCCS/1459/11), it was proposed by industry stakeholders to extend that to 57 fragrance substances. Accurate determination of the levels of these allergens in cosmetics is essential to allow suitable labelling for consumers, however, this testing is highly challenging for these complex sample types.

Intertek’s experts have developed a superior method using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) to identify and quantify the volatile compounds which are suspected to be allergens in fragrances and raw materials used in cosmetic products.

Using an approach called Multiple Reaction Monitoring (MRM), Intertek’s method is optimised for the determination of 57 allergen substances present in cosmetic samples. In comparison to existing GC-MS methods, Intertek’s is more efficient to run (it uses only one chromatography column with a single injection) and also avoids the risk of false positives which might occur when the presence of other substances in the samples give rise to “matrix effects” during testing. Intertek’s method is fit-for-purpose over a wide range of concentration levels and accuracy can be demonstrated to ensure confidence in the results.

Sylvie Lebrat, Director, LaCoMeD Laboratory, Intertek, said: “Our scientists have developed a unique approach to allergen determination in cosmetics which is optimised for specificity, efficiency and accuracy. The data we generate brings our clients confidence in the results, drives greater insight into understanding their raw materials and helps them to fulfil their regulatory obligations to ensure safer products.”