Natural and high performing hair styling

The demand for more environmentally friendly cosmetic products is increasing drastically.1 In order to help consumers in their purchase choices, brand owners sometimes use labelling with eco labels.

However, depending on the type of label, formulations fulfill different conditions on the type and origin of ingredients used, which can still be confusing for the endconsumer. Furthermore, the most stringent labels strongly restrict formulators in their choice of raw materials and the type of products they can develop. Indeed, not all synthetic raw materials can be exchanged for natural products without a significant loss in the properties. Furthermore, the use of natural ingredients often requires developing new formulation concepts in order to achieve stable formulas with good texture and sensory.  

The ISO norm 16128 was published in 2016 with the ambition to promote innovation and encourage a wider choice of natural ingredients in personal care products. It provides definitions for raw materials that are either fully or partially based on natural resources. For instance, to qualify as naturally derived, an ingredient must (among other criteria to be fulfilled) contain at least 50% carbon of renewable origin. This new way of defining raw materials opens doors to innovative sustainable ingredients to replace fuel based materials. 

In this context, Covestro launched in 2018 a new line of polyurethane polymers for use in cosmetics and based on more than 50% renewable carbon; the Baycusan® eco line. The first product of this line, Baycusan eco E 1000 (INCI: Polyurethane93), is specially designed for hair care. In this article the benefits of Baycusan eco polymers and in particular of Baycusan eco E 1000 (now referred to as ‘Polyurethane93’) are reviewed, both in terms of sustainability and application benefits.

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