There is a general belief that natural and organic cosmetic products cannot deliver strong benefits and only basic claims can be achieved. This is due to the limited number of ingredients available to those who are formulating certified products.
When transposed to skin care claims, it usually means hydration and moisturisation derived benefits. When it comes to makeup, the absence of truly performing colour cosmetics can lead ‘green consumers’ to look at more standard brands in order to get their favourite look. With this article the authors would like to demonstrate that it is possible to develop organic certified products that are clinically proven to be effective.
Natural cosmetics seem no longer to be a niche market dedicated to a limited group of consumers. According to surveys carried out by the British market research company Organic Monitor, the worldwide turnover of natural cosmetics amounted to approximately US$8.4 billion in 2010, representing a growth rate of 7%.1 One of the main drivers of growth in natural cosmetics has been the consumer trend towards healthier lifestyles. Organic is seen as a life-style choice for the conscientious. Rightly or wrongly, good health is often associated in consumers’ minds with all things natural, while certain substances are considered by some to be harmful even if their use in personal care has been deemed safe by competent authorities. Consequently, these perceptions have given rise to demand for more natural-derived additives and ingredients fulfilling consumer desire to be cleaner, greener and safer. Certain ingredients used in cosmetics have also faced considerable negative publicity, which has only solidified consumers’ negative perceptions of manmade chemicals. Media coverage of the possible carcinogenic effects of parabens, phthalates and triclosan have especially had an impact on consumers, encouraging them to shop for alternative products containing more natural-derived ingredients. Following this consumer trend the ‘big guys’ of the cosmetic and personal care industry have launched their ‘free-from’ alternatives. Influential names of the industry are now showcasing ‘standard’ and ‘natural’ products on the shelves. Consumers seem to be lead to think that high performance cannot be found among natural and organic products and can only deliver basic claims linked to the holistic perception of ‘green’ rather than to real and proven benefits. Skin care and makeup are majorly affected as most of the ingredients necessary to develop highly performing products cannot be used by manufacturers of natural and organic certified products. However, modern consumers now want more than just a natural story. They want all the healthy goodness that natural products represent, good value for money and maximum efficacy: this means cosmetic products that are natural as well as performing. It is the authors’ intention to demonstrate that it is possible to develop organic certified cosmetic products that deliver clinically proven benefits.
Approach to effective formulation of skin care products
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