Purity, youth and stem cells investigated

The stratum corneum thickens (hyperkeratosis). Outer skin cells are shed (desquamation) more slowly, often in sheets or scales rather than individually.1 Damage from sunlight and the negative effects of inflammation (often due to reactive oxygen species ROS), begin to accumulate. Gradual effects of nonenzymic browning, where sugars react with proteins, and a whole host of other small changes, collectively impair skin’s function.2 The best anti-ageing creams therefore moisturise, exfoliate and protect skin from damage due to both external and internal factors. The latest and most advanced products contain potent biochemicals, which owe their origins to our recent deeper understanding of skin biochemistry and stem cells. As our knowledge of cell biology has increased so has the demand for products promising purity and youthful skin. Interestingly, it is not only the everincreasing ageing population driving this demand. Younger people, whose lives centre on high definition screens, are also searching for ways to achieve perfect skin. You only have to look to the recent fashion for BB creams (now CC creams and beyond) to see that this market is not confined to older women but has exploded into the world of Asian youth.3

Natural approaches to perfect skin

Anti-ageing products use vast array of different materials.4 Many brands prefer natural materials. The willow (Salix) is a source of actives famous for their medicinal properties mainly due to ‘salicylates’ (i.e. the salts and esters of salicylic acid) and is a traditional remedy for blemishes. The aptly named AMIPerfect from Alban Muller International is pure, natural salicylic acid extracted from wintergreen leaves, following procedures that are completely ecoresponsible (INCI: Gaultheria Procumbens (Wintergreen) Leaf Extract). They also have a sister product, AMIProtect (INCI: Salicylic Acid), which is a natural preservative. Both sources of salicylic acid are perfect for products designed to give a radiant complexion. Salicylic acid is a truly multifunctional active with a long history of safe and effective use.5 Salicylic acid is keratolytic, anti-microbial and antiinflammatory. It purifies the skin and accelerates exfoliation so dull dead cells are quickly lost. Treatments with salicylic acid smooth blemishes and fine lines, while encouraging the regeneration of the epidermis.6 Skin care products with Amiperfect refine skin texture and result in a smoother, softer epidermis and a glowing, luminous complexion. Interestingly, salicylic acid is fluorescent and gives out blue light so it may well be actually adding to a youthful glow.