A new nonionic ascorbic acid derivative

Due to its unique chemical structure, in addition to the effects of AsA, GO-VC is expected to have a humectant effect derived from glycerin and an anti-bacterial property derived from octanol, and also is highly likely to have a fibroblast activation ability, and a melanogenesis-suppressing and skin pore and wrinkle improving effect. GO-VS’s safety tests, which include a human skin-sensitivity test [repeat insult patch test (RIPT)], ocular irritation test [bovine corneal opacity and permeability (BCOP) assay], genetic toxicity (Ames test), and clinical human skin patch test, have been performed, confirming the safety of GO-VC.

 In recent years, ascorbic-acid derivatives have been widely used in cosmetic products, and their physiological effects to the skin are universally recognised. Because intrinsically pure ascorbic acid (AsA) (vitamin C as it is commonly known) has a reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging effect (an anti-oxidant effect) and becomes an indispensable factor upon the hydroxylation of proline and lysine residues in collagen-synthesising process in the body, AsA has an anti-acne, and antispot and anti-wrinkle effect. However, AsA is highly unstable, and after being applied to the skin surface, AsA partly becomes ascorbic acid radicals, which have ROS characteristics and are likely to give unwelcome adverse effects to the skin. For overcoming these disadvantages, ascorbic acid derivatives have been developed, and water-soluble ascorbyl phosphate esters (AP), including sodium ascorbyl phosphate (APS) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (APM), fat-soluble AsA derivatives, including ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (VCIP), and amphiphilic AsA derivatives, including trisodium ascorbyl isopalmitate phosphate and potassium tocopheryl ascorbyl phosphate (EPC), are available on the market. These AsA derivatives have been reported to be highly stable and, as well as ascorbic acid, show various skin-physiological effects such as an anti-acne, anti-spot, and anti-wrinkle.1-4 Recently, a new AsA derivative, 2-glyceryl 3-octyl ascorbate (GO-VC) has been developed (Fig. 1). The derivative has a unique structure where glyceryl and octyl groups are introduced to hydroxyl groups at the C-2 and C-3 positions of AsA, respectively and become a nonionic and amphiphilic AsA derivative, which was previously unavailable anywhere in the world. This report will introduce the useful functions of GO-VC.

Functions of GO-VC