Ingredients focus: hair care and treatment

There is a clear need for easy to use hair products that can rectify these problems. Hair is a vital part of a person’s image, indicating many aspects of an individual’s personality: from profession to music taste, as well as their general health. With working hours extending and more and more people living in megacities, hair care products have to be formulated that reflect the time-starved city-dwellers that use them. In recent times hair products have gone beyond the traditional areas of shampoo, conditioner, and styling, as active ingredients are now showing efficacy for hair regeneration and growth delaying. In addition the overwhelming anti-ageing trend that has dominated skin care for years is now making its presence felt in hair care products. Following is a selection of some of the latest ingredients available for use in hair products, from styling to hair regeneration.

Hair care

According to market researcher Mintel, almost 60% of hair care products launched globally contain at least one silicone ingredient, which are most popular in conditioners, treatments and colorants. To support the creation of hair care products that are both effective and consumer-preferred, the Xiameter brand has introduced a new paraben-free silicone emulsion for hair conditioning applications – Xiameter MEM-2664 Emulsion. Today’s consumers are becoming increasingly interested in what their personal care products contain and are actively reading product labels. Formulators who are responding to consumer desires for paraben-free products need alternative ingredients that are both proven and high-performing which is why Dow Corning has added Xiameter MEM- 2664 Emulsion to its hair care line. The emulsion is similar to Xiameter MEM-1664 Emulsion, a proven hairconditioning agent. The only difference is that Xiameter MEM-2664 Emulsion contains a non-paraben preservative. Both products enable formulators to deliver high-molecular-weight dimethicone through a water-based system. Both can be used to add valuable conditioning and wet- and dry-combing benefits to shampoos and leave-in and rinse-off conditioners. Keracyn from Provital is a natural ingredient obtained from the leaves of artichoke (Cynara scolymus L.) that offers global protection and resistance for shiny and healthy hair. It works by keeping the cuticle scales sealed. The fibre is protected against aggressions, sensorial properties are preserved, and the inner substance, lipids and proteins, preserves its integrity. Cuticles lay flat and smooth leading to a resistant, shiny, disciplined and frizz-free hair. Hair irradiated with UV and treated with Keracyn keeps its protein composition. By protecting the protein fraction in the fibre, the ingredient prevents the loss of hair substance. Hair density remains intact as Keracyn works as a cuticle protective shield. Hair fibre loses lipid cement due to external damages, such as sun radiation, smoke or pollutants. As a result it becomes dry, gets entangled and breaks easily. Keracyn preserves the hair surface and its qualities avoiding lipid oxidation, so hair keeps its density and it is easier to comb. Hair subject to UV radiation loses lipids. Shine fades and hair becomes dull but with Keracyn avoids shine loss in natural and dyed hair. Its cosmetic applications include hair strengthening and intensive repairing products, daily use hair products, styling and fixing hair products, and hair dyes. From environmental factors to aggressive hair dyes and unsuitable hair treatments, the scalp is subjected to multiple daily stresses that lead to chronic irritation. Tugging, itching and stinging sensations are reactions of discomfort revealing a delicate scalp. Silab proposes Capicalm, an anti-irritant active ingredient rich in purified fumitory glycans to protect sensitive scalp. Through its soothing action, Capicalm reduces the inflammatory reaction by limiting the release of key inflammation factors such as NF-B and PGE2; and protects thereby against external stresses by calming irritation and itching induced by chemical hair treatment. Combining protection and comfort, Capicalm can be added to all hair treatment products for weakened scalp. When subjected to inflammation induced by TNF-, the phosphorylation and translocation of NF-B in normal human keratinocytes are induced to a significant extent. Tested at 1% on keratinocytes treated with TNF-, Capicalm reduces the phosphorylation of NF-B by 43% (significant and dose-dependent effect; results available in the product file) and decreases the nuclear translocation of NF-B. When subjected to an inflammation induced by arachidonic acid, human keratinocytes secret significantly more PGE2. Tested at 1%, Capicalm significantly reduces the release of PGE2 by 48%, thereby limiting the inflammation phenomenon. This effect is dosedependent. Capicalm, added to a hair lightening treatment at 2%, is generally seen as more effective than the placebo. 94% of the volunteers found that Capicalm limited the sensations of heating and itching compared to the side treated with the placebo. In addition, 88% of them consider that Capicalm is an anti-irritant and soothing product.