New solution for foaming

According to Mintel, in 2012, green trends including water conservation and manufacturer innovation favoured the launch of body wash and shower products to that of traditional bar soap. More recently basic body washes have been upgraded to more enticing formulations containing all types of bells and whistles as have shampoos. While efficiency remains the number one consumer demand, formulators are becoming more and more creative in order to create brand loyalty and deliver additional benefits. Today’s body wash offering is colourful or transparent, fragranced and often has an assortment of insoluble suspended particles. In addition, as consumer education continues to improve pH balanced or natural pH formulations are in high demand. Formulating these new generation body washes can be a difficult task without the right rheology modifier.

A rheological modifier for new generation hygiene formulations

Shampoo is a staple product in households around the globe and the increasing usage of body wash and facial cleansers as well as new generation shampoos make this a growing market segment. In 2011 the worldwide volumes of the bath, shower and shampoo segments was 7.9 million tons (Euromonitor International). The demand for novelty and ‘free-from’ claims creates the opportunity for ingredient manufacturers to innovate and anticipate unexpressed market needs. Seppic in partnership with Coatex launched a new rheology modifier, EliclearTM 4U that does just that. Its key performances of clarity, suspension and thickening power prove ideal for formulators unable to easily respond to marketing requests with the currently available products. Eliclear 4U (now referred to as ‘the new rheology modifier’) ushers in a new generation of rheology modifiers focused on hygiene applications. Clear body wash and shower products as well as transparent coloured formulations that contain suspended particles are increasing their shelf space. Shampoos are no longer just for cleansing and the new generation aims to problem solve; whether the concern is shine enhancement, strengthening, smoothing, colour retention or anti-dandruff (Mintel). The creation of such formulations can be quite complex hence the interest of the new rheology modifier as it facilitates an easy formulation process all the while providing excellent clarity, stability and suspension even at low pH. Compared to benchmarks, clarity is improved from pH 5. In the past clarity was considered to be an added benefit much like moisturising claims and not necessarily a must have criteria. This was seen especially in sulfate-free systems where the pH is often closer to 5 than 6 as clarity was difficult to achieve (Fig. 1). Now it is possible to both suspend insoluble particles and formulate at lower pH without sacrificing stability even in sulfate-free systems. Particle suspension emerges as a key criterion in new generation body and facial wash products. The yield value obtained with the new rheology modifier is similar to the market reference and several other benchmarks (Fig. 2). The ability to deliver the suspension properties formulators depend on while maintaining excellent clarity will allow formulators to create new applications for their future product developments. When discussing particle suspension not all particles are created equal. Nevertheless the new rheology modifier manages to offer great flexibility to the formulator. By manipulating the percentage of active matter (or % commercial product) used one can assure a good suspension from pH 5-7 irrespective of the particle size and concentration in the final formula (Fig. 3). Excellent suspension and viscosity go hand in hand. The thickening power achieved with the new rheology modifier lets the formulator choose concerning the final formulation viscosity. Typical viscosity ranges for hygiene formulas range from 10,000-15,000 cps. Extra fluid formulas or more viscous formulas can be achieved by increasing or decreasing the amount of polymer in the formulation. Very often salt is used to increase the viscosity in these classical systems and formulators will find the new rheology modifier has an excellent synergy with salt allowing for a reduction of its use level and without negatively impacting the foaming capacity and foam sensory attributes (Fig. 4). Foam quality and quantity are quite often deemed the most important parameters when formulas undergo consumer testing. The perception of cleanliness and efficiency are held within a bubble. The product flow and foam flash play an important role as well. When formulating hygiene products irrespective of the surfactants selected the goal is to create a product that cleans and has foam that corresponds to its purpose. Ideally that means larger foam volumes for body products and finer, soft foam for facial products. When evaluating the foam profile of the new rheology modifier at 2.4% am (active matter) or 8% commercial product in a foam solution of threequarters SLES (9% am) + one-quarter Amonyl 380 BA (3% am) for a total of 12% am, we see that the foam softness and volume remain unchanged after two washes and that the formula is noted to rinse well and is not stringy (Fig. 5). We can conclude that the new rheology modifier positively affects the foam of this system.