Improving barrier function to address premature ageing

Skin barrier function, principally the stratum corneum, is the primary line of defence against extrinsic stress such as UV-induced photo-damage, insults from microbial infections and physical deterioration resulting from ageing and environmental exposure.

Scientific evidence suggests that both intrinsic and environmental factors contribute to ‘compromised’ skin barrier function. The stratum corneum functions as an effective barrier and is critical for controlling and preventing water loss. The physiological effect of optimum barrier function allows skin to recover and repair damaged cells through an ongoing regenerative process. Since skin is the body’s first line of defence against any physical or chemical assault, strengthening barrier function is the primary means to improve compromised skin. Barrier protection restores skin hydration and overall health, reducing the appearance of signs of premature ageing.

Premature ageing and compromised skin

When unchecked, compromised barrier results in deteriorating skin function and could ultimately lead to premature ageing.1 Figure 1 summarises the various factors that compromise skin and highlights the effects they have on skin barrier function. Chronic premature ageing is the result of a decreased barrier function that eventually leads to internal skin damage. Compromised skin results when the epidermis is damaged and can no longer protect itself or hold on to moisture. The effects of this damage include loss of cellular moisturisation, decreased lipids and slower barrier regeneration. When skin is compromised it begins to show signs of ageing conspicuously. Common physical signs of premature ageing are fine lines, wrinkles, skin sagging, age spots and blotchiness. Our objective was to develop ingredients that improve the skin’s ability to respond to external stresses that may lead to compromised skin and ultimately premature ageing. The research effort focuses on developing natural bioactive fermentation extracts to repair compromised skin, enhance barrier function and ultimately prevent premature ageing.

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