The use of micro beads in personal care

Microplastics1 are used extensively across personal care products to give exfoliating, sensorial and visual attribute to formulations. Microplastics are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, from micronised spherical powders (used for sensory and structural properties) through to larger shaped particles (used for exfoliation and/or visual effects).

The most commonly used microplastic is polyethylene. In recent years the potentially negative of micro beads on the environment through it accumulation has been explored by various scientific groups. This has led to some companies deciding to remove microplastics from their formulations. The aim of this report is to explore the scientific evidence, obtain the opinions of suppliers of microplastics and also look at potential alternative technologies. Firstly, and importantly, we need to create clear definitions to avoid incorrect generalisations and put the concerns discussed in this article into perspective. The concerns being discussed refer to ‘micro beads’ and not the generic term of ‘microplastics’. Micro beads are small plastic particles which in relation to personal care are used to create decorative and exfoliating particles for inclusion in a wide range of products including shower gels, body wash and other cleansing formats. The reason it is important to separate ‘micro beads’ from the general description of ‘microplastics’ is due to the extensive use of micronised plastic powders in personal care (such powders would fall under the definition of ‘microplastic’ but are very different in form and environmental impact from micro beads). Micronised plastic powders, including polyethylene and PTFE, are widely used for their sensorial attributes in skin care and colour cosmetic formulations. We all know too well how concerns in the media can snowball and lead to trends in marketing and consumer messages, and how important it is to be clear from the outset.

Unilever’s decision to phase out micro beads

The subject of potential concerns with micro beads in personal care came to the fore in January 2013 when Anglo-Dutch multinational company, Unilever, announced its intention to phase out the use of micro beads from a number of its personal care ranges by 2015,2 directly in response to the growing environmental concerns. Unilever explained it had reviewed the evidence on micro beads in particular used within its own product range and concluded a change should be made. The official statement from Unilever read: “We have decided to phase out the use of plastic micro beads as a ‘scrub’ material in all of our personal care products. We expect to complete this phase out globally by 2015.”3 Of course the move by Unilever was significant and immediately caused ripples through the industry. We all know that once such an industry leader moves, inevitably the following begins! What was very interesting and worth noting was that Unilever specified ‘micro beads’ in its statement rather than ‘microplastics’. This links directly with our reasoning for ensuring clear definitions. Micronised powders, etc., were seemingly not covered by Unilever’s concerns on this occasion.

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