Innovative ingredients: safety and compliance

Innovation is key to the successful development of novel cosmetics products. Through innovation, toothpastes have been developed with the introduction of fluorides and antibacterial ingredients to prevent tooth decay and plaque reducing mouth rinses and substances to gently clean sensitive teeth.

Other examples include effective sunscreens developed to offer broad UV (both UVA and UVB) protection and contain a combination of nano-sized mineral (e.g. titanium dioxide) and organic UV filters to offer high levels of protection, while innovation in make-up products has allowed light reflecting products to conceal shadows and blemishes. These innovative products, and many more, have been driven by the introduction of novel ingredients and the evolution of formulation science. However with the use of innovative new ingredients, the cosmetics industry is constantly challenged to develop safe, effective, and compliant products that meet the requirements of both legislation and consumers. The main challenge to innovation is that, while something ‘new’ can be exciting and attractive, it does not always follow that ‘new’ is synonymous with safe and effective. This leads to the requirement for comprehensive testing before the market will accept it. Current trends in personal care product ingredients include increasing popularity of the use of nanomaterials and botanicals, and also the development of ‘cosmeceuticals’ – ingredients with bordering pharmacological activity. The current challenges that industry face can span a range of issues such as:

•  Safety testing protocol requirements.
•  Upholding the 3Rs (Reduction, Refinement, Replacement – Promoting alternative methods to animal testing).
•  Toxicology assessment.
•  Documentation of the raw material supply chain.
•  Determination of impurities and chemical and physicochemical properties.
•  Presence and characterisation of nanomaterials.
•  Communication between stakeholders.
•  Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation & restriction of CHemicals (REACH) requirements.

Upholding the 3Rs

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