Luminescence increased by plant-derived lipophilic active

It is important to mention that, even though they are associated to ageing by connotative definition, age spots are more related to the effect of UV radiation rather than the chronological ageing itself – intrinsic ageing. This is why age spots are mainly visible in the face, neck, upper chest area and on the dorsal side of hands and outside of forearms. Actinic ageing and intrinsic ageing are closely linked to each other as UV-induced damage occurring from repetitive excessive sun exposure accumulates with time. Cutaneous signs of ageing such as age spots most likely appear from a super imposition of photodamage and chronological ageing. The etiology of age spots is not yet entirely elucidated. However, recent studies have proposed various pathways contributing to the formation and the visual appearance of age spots. While there is an obvious accumulation/concentration of melanin pigments,1 the main culprit of age spot formation remains UVB radiation. Indeed, UVB can directly cause an increase in the production of melanogenic growth factors from either stressed keratinocytes2 or photoaged fibroblasts.3 Through a more indirect mechanism, UVB can, by an enzymatic-dependent disruption of the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), provoke the release of additional pro-melanogenic factors previously embedded and kept silent in the DEJ matrix.4 Those cell-derived and matrix-derived growth factors and cytokines will locally stimulate melanocytes encouraging melanin deposition and age spot formation. Such UV-induced synthesis/release of cytokines might explain gene expression study reports showing an upregulation of inflammation pathways in age spot areas.5,6 Another pigment, lipofuscin, is known to be generated by an incomplete degradation of oxidised protein and lipids. It accumulates in senescent cells – cells that have reached a state of non-proliferation – and is thus considered as a marker of ageing.7 Some authors have proposed an involvement of this so-called ‘age pigment’ in the formation of age spots but experimental demonstrations are still lacking. Innovacos has developed a line of lipophilic active ingredients called Activoil (patent pending). The main characteristic of that line of actives is the use of a liposoluble matrix enriched with a lipophilic plant-derived extract and protected from oxidation by the addition of two other specific lipophilic botanical fractions. Activoil Spotless is composed of Ribes nigrum (blackcurrant) seed oil and a Paeonia suffruticosa root bark super critical CO2 fluid extract. Ribes nigrum seed oil has been selected for its content in biologically active fatty acids namely linoleic, alphalinolenic and gamma-linolenic forming an omega 6-3-6 combination. Those fatty acids, especially linoleic, are known to inhibit melanogenesis mainly at the tyrosinase level. Known as the ‘plant of healing’, Paeonia suffruticosa produces magnificent white flowers – ‘peony’ – and is used in a variety of Asian traditional medicines. Using CO2 super critical fluid extraction technologies, a lipophilic fraction enriched in paeonol was obtained from the Paeonia root bark. Paeonol is known to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-melanogenic actions. Activoil Spotless (hereafter referred to as age spot/luminescence active) represents an ideal stabilised complex of lipophilic ingredients to reduce the appearance of age spots and increase skin brightness and luminescence. The proposed INCI name is: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil (and) Octyldodecanol (and) Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Alcohol (and) Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (and) Solidago Virgaurea (Goldenrod) Extract.

Materials and methods

Rancimat test