Successful implementations of cosmetic testing

The range of test methods starts with simple questionnaires and ends with complex physiological measurements. The quality of dermatological reports directly depends on the seriousness of the commissioned dermatologists. Pitfalls occur whenever non qualified scientific results are generously used for advertising campaigns like ‘dermatologically tested’, ‘allergy tested’, ‘hypo-allergen’ etc. Additionally a lot of reports are scientifically insufficient. Dermatological reports on cosmetics therefore must be valid in scientific methods and practical execution.

The cosmetic industry is booming and growing and so are the claims concerning the degree of amicability and effectiveness of cosmetic products. A current cosmetic product has to fulfil many claims and demands and this is not only due to decorative effects. But most of all, it has to be well-tolerated. It is not only the demands that have changed, but also the average skin-conditions. Skin conditions have gone to extremes in global populations and there are more and more people suffering from very dry skin, sensitive skin and seborrhoic skin. This has to be considered when formulating products for problematic skin conditions. Cosmetic products are principally concerned with their visual nature rather than with function and their formulation has been an exciting challenge for cosmetic chemists. A fundamental first step in the formulation is to ensure that every component complies with the regulations in the country where the product will be sold. Today all countries have regulations controlling the type and purity of any material that may be used in cosmetics whether it is an active or a passive ingredient. After toxicological approval, a cosmetic product has to pass dermatological tests to prove that it has no dermatologically harmful effects like irritations. The risk of sensitisation depends on individual susceptibility and is genetically determined with an increased incidence of positive patch testing among siblings and children. The sensitising properties of a substance applied are often dependent on its concentration. Therefore the testing of cosmetic products according to dermatological criteria is very important for the safety of these products. A cosmetic claim is a benefit that can be perceived by a consumer when using either a decorative cosmetic or a skin care product. The legal classification of what cosmetics are and the regulatory systems to which they must comply vary in different countries. However, this year the European regulation will be come into force which leads to a harmonised legislation. Regardless, cosmetic claims must be substantiated which means that they must have what is called a reasonable basis to support the claim being made. There are three ways to substantiate a cosmetic claim:

•  By testing the cosmetic to demonstrate that customer experience supports the claim.
•  By expert analysis and opinion which typically involves a review of already published information on a cosmetic ingredient or product type.
•  By specified test methods that support the claims to be made.