Natural skin care activity from the Arctic

 In the North, the harsh conditions, especially the low temperature, promote the synthesis of flavonoids and other bioactive antioxidants.1–3 This makes Arctic plants especially appealing as raw materials for active cosmetics ingredients.

Bioactive compounds and traditional uses of heather, cloudberry, roseroot, meadowsweet and juniper

Heather (Calluna vulgaris) flowers have traditionally been used as an antiinflammatory and anti-bacterial remedy for treating urinary tract disorders, wounds, and rheumatic conditions. Beneficial effects reported in the scientific literature include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiproliferative activities. Heather has a rich profile of bioactive compounds, including flavonols, catechins and procyanidins (condensed tannins), phenolic acids, phenols, and triterpenes. It is perhaps best known for containing arbutin, associated with effects on melasma (hypermelanosis of the face); ursolic acid, associated with anti-inflammation activity; and flavonols, with strong antioxidant and antiinflammatory potential.4,5 Cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) is characteristic of the bogs of Lapland. The yellow berries are rich in phenolic compounds, the ellagitannins, and their hydrolysis product ellagic acid, in particular.6,7 Polyphenol-rich extracts of cloudberry have exceptional anti-microbial properties, most likely due to ellagitannins and ellagic acid.6,8 Chemopreventive properties for ellagic acid have been reported as well.9 Cloudberry has traditionally been used for treatment of fever, and, because of its high vitamin C content, for treatment of scurvy. Roseroot (Rhodiola rosea), also called Arctic or golden root, is known as an adaptogen, a substance that helps the body to counteract adverse physical, chemical, or biological stress factors. Studies suggest that intake of roseroot affects the central nervous system and may reduce the harmful effect of stress on memory and cognitive function.10 As reviewed by Khanum et al.,10 indications exist of beneficial effects of roseroot on physical work capacity and on cardiovascular and reproductive health. The characteristic bioactive compounds of roseroot include rosavins, salidroside, and tyrosol. Roseroot is used for stimulating the nervous system, eliminating fatigue, and decreasing depression.10 For these properties, roseroot extracts are especially appealing as ingredients for anti-stress applications in cosmetics. Meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria/ Filipendula ulmaria) is a plant found in damp meadows. It has been used for attenuation of inflammation, for rheumatic disorders, as an analgesic, for stomach disorders, and for its diuretic activity.11 Meadowsweet is rich in flavonoids, and the presence of salicylates has been reported.11,12 Strong antibacterial activity has been reported in meadowsweet of Finnish origin.12 The traditional use against inflammation is supported by studies indicating that meadowsweet has effects against activation of inflammatory pathways.13 Several parts of juniper (Juniperus communis), including the berries, branches with needles, bark, tar, and even roots, have been used in folk medicine throughout history. The indications of use have been variable, from improving digestion to preventing infectious diseases.14 The water-soluble fraction of juniper is rich in phenolic compounds and has exceptionally strong antioxidant activity as assessed by several in vitro methods.15 The active compounds of the needle-like leaves of juniper include neolignan and flavonoid glycosides.16,17