Liquid crystal emulsifier

A product in the form of an emulsion also has the advantage of having a desirable appearance and texture that lends itself to myriad applications. They can be formulated to be low viscosity, milk type emulsions of variable consistency, soft to heavy creams, or lotions. In addition, emulsions have proven to be an excellent vehicle for delivering active and functional ingredients. The concept of stabilising an emulsion through the formation of a network of liquid crystals is different than the HLB theory of emulsion formulation.

A simple solution

Using the liquid crystal stabilisation concept for emulsions, Lipo Chemicals has developed a special blend of non-ionic surfactants designed to simplify emulsion formulation. Lipomulse Luxe is comprised of specific non-ionic emulsifiers representing a range of HLBs and an ideal level of fatty alcohol creating a liquid crystal system that eliminates the need to calculate required HLBs. As a new oil-inwater emulsifying system, chemically it is a combination of glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol. Along with simplifying formulating, as a complete emulsifier system it also provides convenience as it simplifies manufacturing, inventory control and material management. Lipomulse Luxe is especially suited for use in stabilising emulsion formulations having a high oil phase such as night creams and sunscreen formulations. Typically, stabilising emulsions with up to 30% oil phase are very problematic in an oil-in-water emulsion. It is able to do this effectively due to the combination of key surfactants and the formation of unique liquid crystals. Lipomulse Luxe forms liquid crystal structures that serve to greatly increase long term emulsion stability as well as stability at elevated temperatures. The liquid crystal structures that form are present throughout the emulsion, more than would be expected from a standard emulsifier (see Fig. 1). These unique liquid crystal structures enhance the stability of the emulsion formulations. The formation of liquid crystals at the oil/water interface helps give the emulsion homogeneity and structure reducing the intermingling of the components at the interface, providing the emulsion with enhanced stability. Furthermore, the liquid crystal system enhances the moisturising capacity of the emulsion. Numerous published studies have shown the improved moisturisation properties of liquid crystal emulsions. Due to this unique structure, there is an inordinate level of inter-lamellar water in the emulsion, when compared to traditional emulsions, which become immediately available when the finished product is applied to the skin. The ability to deliver moisture to the skin in an efficient manner is an added benefit of using a liquid crystal-based emulsifying system. The water that is found in the inter-lamellar layer makes contact with the skin’s lipid bilayer upon application and evaporates at a slower rate. This slower evaporation results in enhanced and prolonged moisturisation of the skin. The proliferation of these specialised liquid crystals not only adds to a formulation’s stability, but also allows cosmetic actives to be dispersed more evenly and delivered to the skin in a more effective manner. Lipomulse Luxe stabilises emulsions with difficult-to-incorporate actives and is effective over a wide pH range (pH 3 to pH 12). Examples of acidic pH actives include glycolic acid and DHA. The most readily noticeable characteristic of emulsions based on this ingredient is the elegant, soft skin feel. When it is incorporated into an emulsion, it produces an immediate and noticeable improved feel during spreading of the emulsion on the skin, as well as during continued rub-in. The response is an elegant, soft feeling sensation that persists long after the product has been applied. The emulsions also have a very fine texture with a luxurious shiny appearance.