Green chemistry: the future or ‘green-wash’?

But organic or natural cosmetics, ecologically sensitive or ethically correct products have a confusing array of certifications from around the world, including BDIH, Cosmos/ Ecocert, Ecolabel, and the Fairtrade label. More and more consumers are environmentally conscious and like to buy personal care products that fit their mindset. But they do not understand the differences between all the labels. The media does not help either; with emotional campaigns, they can potentially cause more fear and confusion than clarification. On one side we have finished goods that use raw materials and packaging that ensure they are produced under ethically correct production conditions, without child labour involved and distributed according to Fairtrade guidelines. Then we have beauty products which contain a portion of natural or organic raw materials. The range varies from almost zero to 100% and a strict differentiation between natural and organic has to be made. There are many products on the market that only have a natural appearance thanks to marketing strategy and do not contain anything natural besides a fruity or flowery fragrance. The third group consists of personal care items that contain mostly biodegradable raw materials and/ or are produced under environmental friendly conditions. They do not need to contain any type of natural ingredients, but these ecology-minded products can really make a difference to our environment as they have a minimal or no negative impact. For many years there has been the Ecolabel which certifies the biodegradability and aqua toxicity of detergents and rinse-off toiletries. This label is more popular in Northern and Western Europe, but is almost unknown for beauty products. In 1998 a book was published by PT Anastas and JC Warner, called ‘Green Chemistry: Theories and Practice’1 which is the handbook for effective application of green chemistry in chemical and related industries. These guidelines make a great deal of sense for reducing the negative impact of cosmetic raw material production, but it has only been in the last few years that they have become better known and popular. When raw material suppliers apply these guidelines they do not offer producers of cosmetic products another unnecessary label, but a strong and meaningful concept that their marketing department can also use for promotion.

The principles of green chemistry

Overconsumption of non-renewable and renewable resources, as well as the production of waste at the same time has brought the world into a critical position. The thinking behind green chemistry (environmentally benign chemistry) rests heavily on a quote from Albert Einstein (1879–1955): “We shall require a substantially new manner of thinking if mankind is to survive.” The book summarised the principles of green chemistry in 12 points: