ANTI-WRINKLE CREAM

FORMULATION EXAMPLE WITH FLOWER ACIDS Pyruvic acid confers Flower acids properties which are superior to AHA or fruit acids without the associated irritation phenomenons due to their high content in mucilages. An independent study (28 days – 10%) by a dermatologist shows the absence of irritation. Flower acids stimulate the cell renewal by decreasing cohesion of corneocytes (by dissolution of desmosomes) and improve the moisturising of upper layers of epiderm. Pyruvic acid contained in Flower acids increase the synthesis of collagen and of mucopolysaccharids too. Use level: 1 to 10%
Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
Water
Aqua
q.s.
EDETA BD
Disodium EDTA
0.1
BASF
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
2.0
Rhodicare T
Xanthan Gum
0.3
Rhodia
B
Tefose 1500
PRG-6 Stearate/PEG-32 Stearate
3.0
Gattefosse
Tego Care 450
Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl Glucose Distearate
5.0
Goldschmidt
Cetiol 868
OctylStarate
5.0
HENKEL
Lanette O
Cetearyl Alcohol
3.0
HENKEL
Cutina GMS V
Glyceryl Stearate
3.0
HENKEL
Pripure
Squalane
2.0
UNICHEMA
Vitamine E Acetate
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.2
ROCHE
Phenonip
Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben and butylparaben and propylparaben.
1.0
NIPA
Flower Acids
Water and Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
7.5
Greentech
Fragrance
q.s.

Preparation:

Procedure Phase A is prepared by mixing and heating deionised water, EDETA BD and Propylene Glycol, to 75°C. At 75°C Rhodicare T is dispersed. Phase B is prepared by mixing and heating 75°C until a clear, virtually colourless solution has been obtained. When homogeneous and at 75°C, add oil phase B to water phase A with high shear mixing for 10-15 minutes. The emulsion is cooled to 30. At 30°C, add Vitamine E Acetate, Phenonip and Flower Acids. Add fragrance if desired. Mix until uniform.

Notes:

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