“No O” Sunscreen Cream SPF 30

This light, non-greasy sunscreen cream does not contain Octinoxate, ethanol or volatile silicones. It applies to wet skin without whitening. The formula contains just one emulsifier, multifunctional cold process Olivem® 2020. HallBrite® BHB provides sunscreen solvency and emolliency. In vitro testing suggests SPF ~34, PFA (PPD) ~16, UVA1/UV = 0.90, and critical wavelength = 380 nm.
Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
BLUE Oléoactif®
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil*, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Germ Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract
Hallstar
1.00
Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer
2.00
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate]
5.00
Homosalate [Homosalate]
10.00
SolaStay® S1
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Hallstar
3.00
HallBrite® BHB
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Hallstar
5.00
Polycrylene®
Polyester-8
Hallstar
4.00
Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate
6.00
DIAM Oléoactif®
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Quercus Suber Bark Extract, Oak Root Extract
Hallstar
1.00
B
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone]
3.00
C
Water (Aqua)
to 100
Glycerin
8.00
Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol
1.00
Disodium EDTA
0.05
Olivem® 2020
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Hallstar
2.00

Preparation:

Add phase A to a secondary vessel. Start mixing. Add phase B. Heat to 55°C. Stop heating when solids are dissolved. Add phase C to the main vessel. Mix until a smooth gel is formed. When both phases are homogeneous, slowly add phase AB to phase C with prop mixing. Continue mixing until emulsion is fully formed (white and thickened) and batch is smooth.

Notes:

Properties (25°C) Appearance: Off-white cream Viscosity (Brk, DVII, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 hours at room temperature; mPa∙s): 20,000–30,000 pH (as is): 6.0–7.0
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