LIQUID FOUNDATION. FOR A NATURAL AND MATT SKIN TONE

Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
Water
9.50 %
Butylene glycol
2.00 %
PEG-400
2.00 %
PECOSIL PS100 (Dimethicone copolyol phosphate –PHOENIX)
0.50 %
Sodium Hydroxyde
QS pH=9
Titanium dioxyde
3.50 %
Talc
1.00 %
Iron oxyde yellow
0.41 %
Iron oxyde red
0.15 %
Iron oxyde black
0.025 %
B
MONTANOV L (C14-22 alkylalcohol and C12-20 alkylglucoside – SEPPIC)
2.00%
Isononyl isononanoate
0.50%
Caprylic capric triglyceride
1.00%
C
Cyclomethicone
2.00%
Xanthan gum
0.50%
Magnesium aluminium silicate
1.00%
D
Water
QSP 100%
Tetrasodium EDTA
0.05%
MICROPEARL M305 (Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer – SEPPIC)
2.00%
E
SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/ Ethylparaben/Propylparaben Butyl paraben – SEPPIC)
0.50%
SEPICIDE CI (Imidazolidinyl urea – SEPPIC)
0.30%
Fragrance
0.20%

Preparation:

Mix together the liquid ingredients of phase A and then adjust the pH to approximately 9 before adding the pigments. Grind the pigments using a bead mill (make up more than will be needed to compensate for losses). Melt the ingredients in B at a temperature of 75°C. Heat the water in the main tank then add the MICROPEARL M305, the EDTA and the pigment paste (A) while heating continuously. Add C in B the introduce (B + C) in the warm water phase; then start the emulsification process. Gradually allow to cool down and, when the temperature reaches about 30°C, add the ingredients in E. Adjust the final pH, if necessary.

Notes:

Comments MONTANOV L A natural, glycolipid emulsifying agent; perfectly suited to the production of fluid and highly-fluid formulas. Easy to stabilize, even at very low viscosities. MONTANOV L is likely to generate liquid crystals according to the emulsification process and the emulsion scheme. MICROPEARL M305 Smooth, ultra-soft microspheres which give foundation creams a slightly powdery feel. To enhance this effect, increase the concentration of the Micropearl M305. By virtue of its high dispersion coefficient in water, levels of 10 to 15% can be obtained without any clumping problems. MICROPEARL M305 also contributes to the anti-shine effect of cosmetics by helping to eliminate specular reflections. Characteristics Appearance tinted milk Viscosity approximately 8,000 cps BROOKFIELD LV3 6rpm pH approximately 7.5 Stability stable at TA/40/50°C and after freeze-thaw cycles -5/ +40°C Assessment Methods available on request (57CO040 – 57CO041 – 57CO042 – 57CO043) * Pigment dispersion can be checked by spreading on an opacity card * Color: L = 70.94, a = 17.61, b = 21.77 * Shine: 2.5 * Covering power: 93.5% Notes Iron oxide yellow: SICOVIT yellow 10 E172 (BASF) Iron oxide red: SICOVIT red 30 E172 (BASF) Iron oxide black: SICOVIT (BASF) Titanium dioxide USP (WITTAKER) Cyclomethicone: DC 345 (DOW CORNING) Xanthan gum: KELTROL T (KELCO) Magnesium aluminium silicate:VEEGUM HV (VANDERBILT) Talc: LUZENAC 000C (LUZENAC) Fragrance: LIANE X018.433 (QUEST)
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